Day 11 continued - Travel Day
September 7, 2019

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Copenhagen |
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Long travel day! |

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Dublin |
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Edinburgh |

We rented another Airbnb for this part of our trip. This one is more of a professional apartment rental place, which we like better. It's through a place called Edinburgh Pearl Lettings in case anybody ever needs a good place to stay. The apartment is nice. It's plenty of room for the 7 of us. The location isn't that close to the attractions, but it is close to restaurants and groceries. If we had figured out the bus system, it would probably be pretty easy to get to the main areas.


The apartment is great! Spotless, nice decor, and has the best washer and dryer that we've come upon so far in Europe. Mainly because it is in English and I don't have to try to translate the hieroglyphics.



Day 12 - Edinburgh - Castle, Camera Obscura, The Royal Mile

It was a late night, but we needed to get an early start to avoid crowds, so I tempted the kids with the novelty of tea and biscuits before we set off. (I picked up the Digestives (biscuits or cookies if you still haven't got the gist) at the airport in preparation and counted on the apartment having a stash of tea for us which they did. This is the first apartment we've rented that actually had no coffee maker. They had a canister of instant coffee. I couldn't even type that without gagging a little. The tea was good though and I'm impressed with how quickly the electric tea kettles brings water to a boil.
We walked to Edinburgh Castle this morning. It was a pretty long walk, but we did alright. We saw a movie or TV show filming a stunt along our way. We didn't actually see the stunt, so it wasn't that exciting. I looked it up and they are filming Fast & Furious 9 here.
It was a little over a mile to the old town where the castle is, but the hills and uneven stone surfaces make it tougher than it sounds. I can't quite grasp the layout of this city. As we walk around it seems like it's constantly going up and down like it's a bunch of hills and valleys but I don't think that's the case. Part of it is that they build some really tall buildings right up against streets on bridges. So they look like three or four story buildings from the street side, and many more stories when viewed from behind.
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Zoe by a fake cannon with a nice view |
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View of the city over the castle wall |
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Zach by a real cannon |
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Prisoners of War rooms staged for the period |
Some of the highlights of the castle were the prison cells, the royal apartments, and the Scottish crown jewels Which were lost for 110 years and recovered in perfect condition. The prison cells did a good job of explaining the life of prisoners in the castle and even providing some real life examples of prisoners who were kept there and why they were there.

The royal apartments showed the room where King James VI was born and told the lineage of Mary, Queen of the Scots. I had just recently read a book partially about her, so that was interesting. And the crown jewels were sort of interesting as well. There is a crown, a sword (and scabbard) and the Stone of Destiny. I wasn't listening to the audio tour at that time, so I didn't know what the Stone of Destiny was or why this chunk of rock was behind glass with the crown and sword. I've looked it up now and still don't really understand it. It says it's a ancient symbol of Scotland's monarchy, but it's origins are unknown. It is used in all coronation ceremonies. It was stolen in 1296 by King Edward I of England and then stolen back by four students from Scotland on Christmas Day, 1950! They only got the stone part of the way however (to an abbey 500 miles away). It didn't return to Scotland until 1996.





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Ploughman's Lunch |

For some reason, Marc likes to drink expensive little bottles of Coke in Europe. Here is the smallest bottle yet....
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Sticky Toffee Pudding |



So anyway, after lunch, Kyrie went shopping down The Royal Mile while I took the kids to Camera Obscura. They had been begging to go and I basically love all tourist traps. I was also pleasantly surprised to find that it has had a very cool piece of history inside. The camera obscura is actually this old contraption that they put in this building in the mid 1800's. It consists of a small mirror on the top of the 5 story building, a couple lenses which I think magnify the image, and a handle that allows the mirror to be turned. The staff there does a 10 minute show which demonstrates how the device can be moved around to display the surrounding area onto a wooden table in a darkened room. It was actually very cool. It was basically like a video camera from the 1800's! It was quite a good show with plenty of humor for the kids.

The rest of the attraction was a variety of optical illusions from long ago to today. Some of our favorites were the mirror maze, the room that makes people look bigger or smaller than they actually are, and the infinity tunnel. We had a lot of fun.


We then strolled down the Royal Mile until we caught up with Kyrie at the end by Holyroodhouse.


Prior to this, my only tea experiences have been more formal and pricey. It was so cool to go into this tea room and just have cream tea (tea and a scone with clotted cream and jam) for a reasonable cost. The kids LOVED choosing a cake or shortbread from the stationary cart, Zach is still talking about his carrot cake there which he wouldn't trade a bite of because, "it's just too good."
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Just a cool looking book store- half underground that we often passed |


Day 13 - Edinburgh City Sightseeing Bus and Scotland Museum

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This is one of the areas of movie filming |
The bus ride was good. We did one full lap on it, which took about 75 minutes and then stayed on for a few more stops until we got back to a place that looked good for lunch. The tour had plenty of information. We learned a little about the castle and about Mary, Queen of Scots, and about how the cross streets to the royal mile are actually bridges built about 4 or 5 stories above the streets below. This also makes it pretty hard to follow a map, which I found out later in the day! We also passed through Holyrood Palace which is where the queen lives when she visits Scotland.
But the most interesting and/or disturbing thing we learned about were the body snatchers. Apparently, the nearby medical school really needed human cadavers for dissection. At this time, people had only recently begun studying human anatomy. They instead had been using dissected pigs. They law stated that they could only use the bodies of executed criminals. Well, apparently there weren't enough of those, so people started stealing bodies from the cemetery and selling them to the school. It got so bad that some cemeteries even installed watchtowers to guard the bodies. Of course, the body snatchers paid much more than the guards were paid, so that wasn't very effective. If that weren't bad enough, two enterprising young men named Burke and Hare decided that digging up the bodies was too much effort, so they just started killing people and selling their bodies instead! Ironically, once they were caught, Burke was executed and his body given to the school where his skeleton remains today.
Well, that was unpleasant.



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Sticky Toffee Pudding and Fudge Cake |








I was particular intrigued by a geology display that showed how over many hundreds of millions of years, Scotland actually moved from near the South Pole to where it is today - and it wasn't even connected to England at that time. Now, I know there are people who have studied this their whole lives and they must know better than me, but come on! How can this possibly be true? Scotland just kind of floated around the Earth for millions of years before being smashed into England? I don't know about that!
Eventually, after spending a pretty good amount of time at the museum, we decided that we didn't have much time left to see Edinburgh so we left the museum to head over to a tour that we wanted to take called The Real Mary Kings Close which is on the Royal Mile. However, when we got back to the Royal Mile, we realized that the Fast and Furious crews had blocked off the entire street leading to where we needed to go.

It would have been a long walk to get around and some of us were getting a little cranky, so we just decided to head back to the apartment instead.


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The film crew |
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We have seen a lot of funny bathroom signs on this trip! |
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Zach appreciates a good plate of spaghetti (as long as it's EXACTLY the way he likes it!) |
Tomorrow we leave Scotland to continue on to England. Obviously, we only got to see a small bit of Scotland, but it was very nice and someday I'd like to return to explore a bit and see the highlands. Edinburgh was very interesting. The terrain was a bit challenging for our little group especially with all of the construction and filming going on. The Old Town section of Edinburgh is in a valley surrounded by a bit of a hill which our directions always made us go around, but probably there is a way to walk over which would have been easier and quicker. It felt very crowded in most places - mostly because we are always herding a pack of kids trying to keep everyone together and away from the traffic.
Day 14 - York - Jorvik, The Shambles, and York Minster




I really liked this train ride too! It was so easy traveling from a train station compared to airports and it was comfortable and nice to sit together with a table too. We reserved seats three months in advance when they first came down to reasonable prices to ensure good seats too. The scenery was very enjoyable, and I relaxed and listened to Rick Steves' audio guides to London on our way- once I gave up trying to take pictures of the scenery from a moving train that is!

We are staying at the Hilton while in York and it feels like quite a luxury (even though the apartments have been nice.) It's just nice to have a place where you don't have to worry about how you're going to pickup the key and what the place is going to really be like. Plus, the Hilton is right by everything we would want to see - it's actually right across the street from a castle!

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view from our hotel room |
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Rather than a small coffee machine common in the US, we found this tea kettle, tea, and even biscuits in our room |


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Max had a "jacket potato" with beans |


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Ella standing over the actual archaeological dig. |

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Ruins of an ancient Roman bath. There is a little museum here under a pub, but it only takes cash and we didn't have any pounds. |
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Marc loved the crooked buildings |


We eventually wandered all the way to the Minster which is one of the largest cathedrals in Europe. The inside was nice, but not awe inspiring like some of the other ones we saw in Barcelona and Paris during our other Europe trip.









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Exploration kits that they let the kids use at the Minster |
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Zach is measuring the floor with a ruler from his kit. |




One of the artifacts in the museum is a book that was 1000 years old that the church still uses - amazing! The book is so carefully drawn, that the letters appear like they must have been printed, but I don't think printing presses were invented until much later.




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One of the gates |

Day 15 - York continued - Castle and museum, then on to London
We really liked this hotel. Not only are the people so friendly and helpful and the location good for us, they included breakfast was amazing. Everything was fresh, high quality, and whole foods. Freshly squeezed juices, the most awesome automatic espresso/cappuccino/latte machine ever, freshly baked and sliced breads for toast, eggs made to order, and a good hot selection, etc., etc.
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This machine is going on my wish list for our kitchen remodel. Not really joking. |



It was very fortunate timing that it just finished raining as we finished breakfast.
Next to the Castle itself is the York Castle Museum which is a little confusing because it doesn't seem to actually have much to do with the castle except that it sits where the bailey (wooden palisade area) of the castle once stood. However, the museum was very interesting in it's own ways and I'm glad we visited it. They had recreations of rooms from houses from various times in history. They also had a recreation of an old Victorian street which included shop keepers to tell more about life at that time (the kids were interested in the odd candies that were once sold.)



There was also a very large section devoted to World War I. We skimmed through the areas about the 60's and the prison which the building was once used for.



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Playing Pong |
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Playing with hand grenades |


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At the top of Cliffords Tower |
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View from top of the castle across the street to our hotel, a nearby church, and the huge York Monster across town |





We had an hour to explore the nearby shopping center. Primark had some super cute Disney pajamas, but we nether needed them nor had room in our luggage for them!
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York Station |


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The money in England is like a work of art. Part of it is transparent. |


Day 16 - London - Tower of London, Thames Boat Tour, Shrek's Adventure
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The tube station looks empty here, but it wsa NOT! |
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VERY crowded subway |


This was the castle I've been waiting for - mostly. First of all, until yesterday when I was reviewing the plans for today, I didn't even know that the Tower of London was a castle. I thought it was just some small fortress where they kept the crown jewels. Nope, this is a full fledged castle. They started building it in 1066 and kept adding to it over the years.


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I assume this is the Queen's residence within the tower |







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Traitor's Gate |


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Yikes |



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It is said that if the six ravens ever leave the Tower of London, it will fall |

Unfortunately, like all of the castles we have seen so far, there has been little information about what it was like to live there (unless you were a prisoner). I would really like to see a recreation of the rooms that the royal family would have actually lived in and also see what some of the staff quarters were like.

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Tower of London |
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A gift from Egypt. The sphinx guarding the obilisk were placed backwards (facing it) and never changed |
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This apparently is the London Bridge, not to be confused with the iconic Tower Bridge |







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Zen Zach |


Our last stop today was Harrod's department store. It is the largest department store in Europe and was first built in the 1800's. It has a very elaborate escalator room that has an Egyptian theme. We only saw a small portion of the store - mostly the toy department.



I was super impressed with Harrods! It's GRAND! Next time I need a $6000 pen, I'm totally going to buy it here. I wandered around a bit while Marc and the kids spent most of the time in the many rooms of the toy department. The picture below is a giant room for perfume with dozens of smartly dressed employees ready to help you. There were more employees than customers in this room the two times I walked through. I can't begin to explain this store, but I highly recommend a visit to experience this for yourself. Macy's in New York City is like a small town Walmart compared to this.

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Outside our apartment |
Day 17 - London continued - Buckingham Palace, Churchill War Rooms, Queens Gallery, Hamley's





We are getting a little stressed out by the crowds in London. Especially in and around the subway. It's hard getting everyone through the turnstile, up and down the stairs and make sure everyone gets on and off the trains with a million people around us and all of them in a hurry to get somewhere.
For a couple months each summer, they open Buckingham Palace to visitors.

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Not Chicago's Buckingham Fountain |
I assume it's because the royal family is on holiday somewhere else - according to the flag, they weren't there today. They call it the State Room tour. We got to see various drawing rooms, the throne room, some ballrooms and dining rooms and I think maybe just part of the gardens. Only the public areas of the palace were toured, not the private residence of course.


The palace was definitely nice. It has very elaborate furniture and gifts from around the world as you might expect. The rooms were very large with high ceilings - many with fancy wallpaper. I could picture what life was like in those rooms. I was kind of surprised that it wasn't a bit grander though. I imagined something a little more "royal". I'm not even quite sure what was missing, but in a way it seemed sort of ordinary. I was especially surprised by the throne room which to me looked more like a couple of cushy chairs instead of thrones. I don't know, probably if there weren't so many people in there, the rooms would have looked a lot grander. They definitely had fancy chandeliers and other features. Pictures weren't allowed on the tour, which is probably good because it would take a lot longer if you had to wait for everyone to get their pictures.
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Her Royal Majesty's Ice Cream Shop |
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Her Royal Majesty's Backyard |


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Bomb hanging over entrance to the museum |

It was another audio tour and we were a bit toured out by then, so we kind of skimmed through it.

On a different day I would probably have spent more time there and gotten more out of it. As it was though we still found it interesting.
We bought The London Pass with a discount online which includes all of these experiences (except Shrek and Buckingham Palace) that we did in London. We carefully weighed rather it would be worth it for us, and decided upon it. It was nice to not feel like we wasted our money spending less time in some places. I actually think we spent plenty of time here and the kids did great.

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Zach observing a baby swan |
We took the kids to the park across the street after that for some much needed running around.

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I began to notice that all types of people in London spend time in parks- - business people, students, families, couples |

It was a good chance for the kids to let off some steam.
Especially because next we were going to the Queen's Gallery which is an art gallery.

I doubt we would have even went here except that we have the London Pass and we were in the area. The gallery apparently has temporary exhibits. Right now it's all about Leonardo Da Vinci. They have a large number of his drawings on display and an audio tour to go with it.
Next we went to Hamley's which the kids enjoyed much more than Leonardo's drawings. It's a giant toy store.


I think it was six stories altogether and the kids thoroughly explored all of them. They really liked playing with the remote control cars and checking out the various LEGO sets.





I would also like to tell the city of London to get more garbage cans! We have had the hardest time finding garbage cans around the city. Around Buckingham Palace they apparently won't allow garbage cans because they consider it a security risk, but even most other places it's really hard to find any place to get rid of your garbage and the few that I did see were overflowing.
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I started threatening the kids if they were misbehaving with having to massage my feet. Unfortunately, the threat mostly worked. |
Day 18 - Big Bus, Westminster Abbey, British Museum, Hyde Park/Kensington Gardens


We had very mixed experiences - sometimes it was great, but other times it was pretty awful. The biggest problem was that the recorded guide was very minimal. The bus went quite far without any narration at all even though we passed plenty of things that would have been interesting to hear about. On one of the routes I think the driver didn't have the narration on at all because it only mentioned the stops. That was also the time that the bus went in a complete circle 2 times before continuing on the route. The tour was much better when there was a live guide on board, but it was unclear what their system was for that. Usually, it was just the recorded tour, but once in a while they had an actual person. Anyway, it was useful for riding around and seeing different parts of London, but not very informative.
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I loved how many buildings had tons of plants on them |
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Upscale hotel |
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One of many white buildings owned by a super wealthy man whose name I cannot recall but stipulates the buildings all remain this color. They do look nice. |
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Tower that inspired today's wedding cake design |


Our first stop was Westminster Abbey. 
It is a large Gothic church which is the site of all British monarch's coronations as well as 16 royal weddings and at least 16 royal monarchs are buried here. Actually, when touring the place it seemed primarily to be a burial hall because it has so many crypts and memorials. Besides the monarchs and their families, there are many military leaders, prime ministers, and other distinguished members of society buried here. You can't go far in that place without stepping on someone! The tombs are very elaborate and interesting to see. The rest of the cathedral was similar to other ones we have seen.


It has very beautiful stained glass windows, huge columns holding up a very interesting looking ceiling, plus the wooden area that seems to have seats of some sort, but they are actually only a half seat, so I guess those people have to lean instead of sit.


You are not allowed to take pictures within the church which is a bit disappointing. But it was crowded with a long queue outside the church of people waiting to get in, so I think the ban on pictures has more to do with that than anything.
The abbey is next to Big Ben and Parliament, but both of these are mostly covered in scaffolding, so we didn't see much of them. (Insert your own memories of National Lampoon's European Vacation.)

It is a large Gothic church which is the site of all British monarch's coronations as well as 16 royal weddings and at least 16 royal monarchs are buried here. Actually, when touring the place it seemed primarily to be a burial hall because it has so many crypts and memorials. Besides the monarchs and their families, there are many military leaders, prime ministers, and other distinguished members of society buried here. You can't go far in that place without stepping on someone! The tombs are very elaborate and interesting to see. The rest of the cathedral was similar to other ones we have seen.





You are not allowed to take pictures within the church which is a bit disappointing. But it was crowded with a long queue outside the church of people waiting to get in, so I think the ban on pictures has more to do with that than anything.
The abbey is next to Big Ben and Parliament, but both of these are mostly covered in scaffolding, so we didn't see much of them. (Insert your own memories of National Lampoon's European Vacation.)
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Lions flank both banks of the Thames river by Tower Bridge |


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Just interesting detail on this building |
Our next stop was Covent Gardens. Didn't actually see any gardens, but it is a nice square that has a bunch of shops and restaurants. (No pictures!?)


We made it to the first 3 or 4 or 5 or 6, but we couldn't even commit ourselves to all 10.




The Holy Thorn Reliquary (a very elaborate piece that holds a thorn believed to be from the crown of thorns) was the only one that we found very interesting.
We soon skipped ahead to the Rosetta Stone, a rock slab which has a decree from 196 BC engraved on it in 3 different languages.

It became the key to deciphering Egyptian hieroglyphics. because we really just couldn't be bothered with anything in the museum at this point. It was interesting to see the Rosetta Stone in person. It was bigger than I imagined it to be.
We took a break and had our last authentic afternoon tea. Then we continued on our Big Bus tour the rest of the afternoon.


We got off the bus at one corner of Hyde Park which also backs up to Kensington Gardens. I hadn't realized quite how big the park was.
We actually walked all the way through Hyde Park and still chose to walk through part of Kensington Gardens wondering how close the Princess Diana memorial playground but didn't see it. We recalled seeing dining options when we passed by here on the bus at the beginning of the day, but they didn't pan out.
We ended up walking 2 miles to get back to our apartment. It was a nice walk for the most part.
The park is nice and the bit of Kensington Gardens that we saw seemed very interesting, but eventually everyone's legs were wearing out and we were glad to see our street again! We found a restaurant on our street that looked good enough. Marc and Jacob swore they were going to have fish and chips in the UK and this is about there last chance, so marc ordered it and said it was pretty good. (He's not a fish fan.) Most of us tried just to say we did.






We actually walked all the way through Hyde Park and still chose to walk through part of Kensington Gardens wondering how close the Princess Diana memorial playground but didn't see it. We recalled seeing dining options when we passed by here on the bus at the beginning of the day, but they didn't pan out.
We ended up walking 2 miles to get back to our apartment. It was a nice walk for the most part.
The park is nice and the bit of Kensington Gardens that we saw seemed very interesting, but eventually everyone's legs were wearing out and we were glad to see our street again! We found a restaurant on our street that looked good enough. Marc and Jacob swore they were going to have fish and chips in the UK and this is about there last chance, so marc ordered it and said it was pretty good. (He's not a fish fan.) Most of us tried just to say we did.



London was a nice place to visit. It was really very little like I imagined it to be. There is definitely a lot to see and do here. We could have spent a couple more days and not been bored. But fighting the crowds was definitely no fun. It was a relief today that it was Saturday and everything was so much quieter! I thought it was fun to see all of the things that are just a little bit different than at home - like the signs for "way out" instead of exit and a thousand other small things that make you realize that you are somewhere else. I still haven't figured out what some of the coins are worth - but they are really cool looking - makes our coins back home look like rubbish!
We are all looking forward to boarding our RELAXING Disney cruise tomorrow! Hopefully, I'll find some chances to update this at some of our ports and I also definitely need to get the kids thoughts in here as well!
Click here for part 4
Click here for part 4
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